Full Version: Color Filling
From: Zak [#15]
19 Nov 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#14] 19 Nov 2005
Wow. Thank you for the detail... The photos are great. Next to my wife (who is in the room ;-)) this forum is the greatest thing I've found.
Can't wait to try all of these great techniques.
Thanks
Zak
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#16]
19 Nov 2005
To: Zak [#15] 19 Nov 2005
We're happy to be running a close second to your wife. :-)
From: Rodney Gold (RODNEY_GOLD) [#17]
20 Nov 2005
To: ALL
A tip for RnBuff is to use turpentine , all the wax based metal/coloured pastes clean up well with turps.
There are much cheaper alternatives than RnBuff found at any craft shop with far mor colour choices too. Gilding pastes etc.
Meths will remove excess dried ducos etc without damaging most surfaces and it also doesnt matte the surface of the paint like thinners etc, but be careful with lasered plastics as meths will also cause stress cracking (as will most solvents)
We buy recycled scrap fabric and use the thin fluff free t-shirt material stretched over a wood block or scrap pex squares as a "rubber"
Be carefull with RnB and other wax based products with stuff like granite and marble or other porous stuff , it stains the surface and is impossible to remove , same with paints on anodised surfaces which arent often well sealed.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#18]
20 Nov 2005
To: Rodney Gold (RODNEY_GOLD) [#17] 20 Nov 2005
From: Ed (EMANA) [#19]
20 Nov 2005
To: ALL
David,
Excellent photos! Can you include one before finish coat and one after you clean?
Ed
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#20]
20 Nov 2005
To: Ed (EMANA) [#19] 23 Nov 2005
Thank you Ed. Credit for the photos goes to my better half, Robyn.
Sorry to tease. Those were a few photos I had handy. They're a few of the images I plan to use in an in-depth "artitorial" for lack of a better term.
Due to popular demand (yours) I've gone back and added a few photos to my post.
The real story is about the engraving of communications equipment (walkie-talkies) which require paint-filling.
Everyone needs a niche and engraving two-radios has been one of my strongest.
EDITED: 20 Nov 2005 by DGL
From: Ed (EMANA) [#21]
23 Nov 2005
To: ALL
David,
More Great Photos. Thanks!
What type of engraving is this (Laser or Rotary)?
Ed
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#22]
23 Nov 2005
To: Ed (EMANA) [#21] 23 Nov 2005
Ed,
David would be dangerous (stunt-like) with a laser engraver, so we keep him away from that type of equipment. It was done with a rotary engraver.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#23]
23 Nov 2005
To: Ed (EMANA) [#21] 23 Nov 2005
To elaborate on David Takes' assessment of my safety quotient, it's rotary engraving at about .015 deep. :-)
From: Bieb (HABIEB) [#24]
26 Nov 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#14] 27 Nov 2005
David, Great pics and explanation!! Can this method be used on Acrylic? or will it cause hazing or frosting? I have a job coming up where I will be laser engraving and gold color filling 300-600 retirement gifts. I was able to convince the school board to go with a great looking acrylic award. I am now trying to figure out how I want to accomplish the work. The awards are not due until late May for the retirement dinner. I will start to purchase and engrave the awards in Jan in certain number batches. And would love to have a system like this for this project.
Thanks
Harold
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#25]
27 Nov 2005
To: Bieb (HABIEB) [#24] 27 Nov 2005
You can use this method (flood) on acrylic. What you want to be careful of, is not to use too strong a solvent for cleaning. No lacquer thinner or acetone.
Naptha and WD-40 has worked well for me on all substrates.
Here's a story I heard the other day. Not sure if it's true or not, but I'm told it is.
WD-40 got its name by being the 40th formulation of a Water Dispersant.
From: joepafan (GPERZEL) [#26]
30 Nov 2005
To: ALL
Hi All;
Whenever filling anything laser engraved other than wood, I use acrylic based craft paints which are very inexpensive and come in a ziilion colors-yeah, really. They work great on plex and other plastics and clean up with water.
For wood plaques, etc with finished surface I also use the acrylic. For unfinished wood, mix a little Elmer's paste wood filler (in a tube, not can) with whatever color acrylic paint you want, flood it on, let it dry and sand it flush.
George
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#27]
30 Nov 2005
To: joepafan (GPERZEL) [#26] 3 Dec 2005
I hadn't heard of the "wood filler" trick.
Very nice! Thank you.
From: aallen [#28]
1 Dec 2005
To: joepafan (GPERZEL) [#26] 3 Dec 2005
I am doing some paint filling now, on plastic objects. Does anyone seal over the paint fill when done, something to protect the paint fill? Wanting to make sure the paint fill stays in place and lasts well. Maybe it does without any sealer? I have not done much paint fill, so not sure if it is everlasting!
Also, thanks for the paint flood filling method, I had not thought or tried that! :-)
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#29]
1 Dec 2005
To: aallen [#28] 1 Dec 2005
The paint-fill doesn't require a top coat.
A good enamel or acrylic paint is very durable and won't come out of the image area, unless exposed to heavy solvents or abrasion.
From: aallen [#30]
1 Dec 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#29] 1 Dec 2005
Thank you,
I figured that, but was not sure. Thanks for the reply so quickly! :-)
I was always hesitant about doing paint fill, but this method seems to be so much easier then I thought. Thanks again,
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#31]
1 Dec 2005
To: aallen [#30] 1 Dec 2005
You're not alone. When people see paint-filled items, visions of surgical application come to mind.
That's why I posted the most common (flood) method, which, as you witnessed, is anything but exacting. :-)
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