Full Version: Laser Toner Transfer/Infrared Temp. Guns (Sticky)
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#1]
23 Nov 2005
To: ALL
It is a large file in PDF format, but a moderator can get away with that. :O
The only other thing to say is about the solidness of the Konica/Minolta 2400W. We had a flood from the washing machine and about 5-10 gallons of soapy water ran through the printer. It was unplugged at the time, I use a switch box for the printers because I also have a B/W laser and they overload the line if both heaters are on at the same time. I opened the unit and mopped up all puddles. I left it to dry over the weekend. The first prints were messy, but after about 5 it did as well as new.
EDITED: 22 Jan 2007 by HARVEY-ONLY
Message 2366.2 was deleted
From: cindy (ROBERTM) [#3]
23 Nov 2005
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#1] 23 Nov 2005
Harvey,
Great article thanks. One question can you use the same Paper for the different substrates. I have the the CPM 6.1 but thought it was only for plastic. I was under the impression you had to have different paper for different applications.
Thanks Cindy
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#4]
23 Nov 2005
To: cindy (ROBERTM) [#3] 24 Nov 2005
6.1 is for all hard goods. There is a different paper for soft goods.
Thanks for the comments.
Question, do you prefer it in the PDF format so you can save it on your computer and print it out, or do you prefer it as a thread for printout?
From: cindy (ROBERTM) [#5]
24 Nov 2005
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#4] 24 Nov 2005
I printed out what you did and it works fine for me. Could you please post what type transfer paper you would use for the other surfaces.
All I have been using this process for so far is name badges, and I seem to mess up the first attempt and have to redo it over. I'm using a Geo Knight hobby heat press, do you think maybe the heat setting are not correct?
Also I have the Pad not sure what its called but its white. I have read that there is another pad a green pad, is this something I also need? And what would that be used for.
I hope everyone has a blessed Thanksgiving and stop and give thanks for all our many blessings. Also remember all the ones that have lost so much this year with the stormes. We still have so many in Mississippi and LA that are living in tents waiting on trailers. Please remember them in your prayers.
Thanks Cindy
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#6]
24 Nov 2005
To: cindy (ROBERTM) [#5] 25 Nov 2005
Name badges are the most difficult due to the melting point of most flex. Some types do not work at all, such as the Rowmark Textures. You need a smooth surface, (the brushed finish badges DO have a smooth surface). The ones that have the highest temperature rating work best. I have some cheap leftover scrap from a run of screened badges that works well. Not sure who made them but they yellow after a few years even when kept in the dark with nothing done to them.
It depends on the problem that you are having. Melt or sticking on the surface is either too much heat or dwell time. Incomplete transfers are the reverse.
There are a whole lot of pads available, each with different thermal properties. The all should be silicon rubber but compounded differently. Most are foam, some are solid. There is the brick red, (less thermal transfer), green, grey, and black. Each comes in different thicknesses. If you have a pad, use it and get familiar with the setting adjustments for that pad.
I have 1/8 brick red foam and 1/16 green, just to try a different type. They both work pretty much except for the time. The 1/16 green will take 40 seconds on an item, where the brick red 1/8 will take between 60 and 120 seconds for the same item.
Like sublimation it is an art, unlike sublimation, once you get the settings it is truly repeatable. The press temp is even more important here. 30* out of 280* is a much larger percentage than 30* out of 400*, therefore more critical.
Descriptions for papers for other materials are listed on the two websites in the article. The settings I gave are for the hard goods paper only, on hard goods.
From: cindy (ROBERTM) [#7]
26 Nov 2005
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#6] 26 Nov 2005
Didn't I read somewhere in another thread about a thermometer you could use to tell if your heat press was indeed the right temp.?
If this is correct could you tell what it was and were I could get one.
Thanks Cindy
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#8]
26 Nov 2005
To: cindy (ROBERTM) [#7] 27 Nov 2005
They are currently on sale for $59.95 at Harbor Freight, (I think harborfreight.com). Last year they hovered around $100.
On DSSI a few people said that if you are serious about sublimation, it is a necessity. I figured that my reading was accurate, wrong. 15* can make a bigger difference in results with laser toner transfer. You really need that temperature gun for good results.
From: UncleSteve [#9]
27 Nov 2005
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#8] 27 Nov 2005
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#10]
27 Nov 2005
To: UncleSteve [#9] 27 Nov 2005
Forgot to mention that, thanks.
Plain masking tape works also. If the platen is metal at all use the tape. I have a sandblasted metal platen, totally erratic readings without the tape, rock steady readings with the tape.
From: cindy (ROBERTM) [#11]
23 Jan 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#8] 23 Jan 2006
Harvey,
I have been looking for the infra-red laser non-contact gun. They have two at Harbor Freight item 90380-ovga at $79.99 and another item # 91778-4VGA $39.99. Could you please tell me which one it is that you have.
Thanks Cindy
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#12]
23 Jan 2006
To: cindy (ROBERTM) [#11] 24 Jan 2006
Now that I am finally home again, I have the thermometer in hand.
It is Cen-Tec item 91778. That is the only info on it except for the Harbor Freight phone number 800-444-3353.
That is such a good price, I may buy a spare. I have never seen it so inexpensive.
EDITED: 23 Jan 2006 by HARVEY-ONLY