Full Version: Opening Aerosal Can

From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#1]
 10 Aug 2006
To: ALL

Help!

I've got three aerosol cans of CerMark, including one of the so-called new and improved aerosol cans, that have 1/3 to 1/2 of product left in them and are clogged. I follow the manufacturer's care instructions to avoid the clogging issue, and even do some things beyond that.

I've got a small job I have to get done today for a pick-up in the morning and my new-improved can is even clogged. I have read posts in the past where some of you have opened CerMark aerosol cans. How do you do that safely?

It is definitely time for me to get an air brush and pump.

EDITED: 10 Aug 2006 by DATAKES


From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#2]
 10 Aug 2006
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#1] 10 Aug 2006

quote:
How do you do that safely?

No real way that I know. You must first release the pressure very slowly before opening. You will be amazed at how much will spray all over the place when you use a center punch near the top to release the 'air'. My friend said he would never do that again!

In all probability it is the nozzle that clogged.

The best recommendations that I have heard were to wash out the nozzle a few times, blowing the bit of water that sticks inside with an air line between washings. Storing it in water might also help.

They also recommend storing the cans upside down. Guess the particles can settle and form a seal around the tube then blow upward and create a clog.

Maybe soaking the nozzles in alcohol for a while then using an air gun to blow it out from both sides will work. It is worth a try.

This is all assuming that you have not lost all of the pressure in the can from a slow leak.

From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#3]
 10 Aug 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#2] 11 Aug 2006

When I finish using the can each time, I hold it upside down to empty the line, then I remove the nozzle and store the can upside down. To top it off, I rinse out the nozzle with hot water and store it in water. I give these darn aerosol cans every chance to work and they fail me. Grrrr!

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4]
 10 Aug 2006
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#3] 10 Aug 2006

David,

Do you think the propellant gave up?

If so, you might try removing the bottom of the can with one of the can openers that doesn't leave sharp edges.

From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#5]
 10 Aug 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4] 10 Aug 2006

Dave,

I'm pretty confident that there is plenty of propellant in the cans, plus the bottom of the cans have no lip for an opener to grab on to.


From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#6]
 10 Aug 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4] 10 Aug 2006

I spoke with a large machine shop in our town that has a laser engraver. They actually had some CerMark on hand. They bailed me out.

I plan to call Ferro to see what can be done about these cans.


From: James (TILER02) [#7]
 10 Aug 2006
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#6] 10 Aug 2006

The cans are real easy to open. I do it a couple differant ways. If I think the propellant is gone I just drill a hole below the rim. If they still have propellant, I take a pair of plyers and peal the top back. Do not shake the can up before doing this. Do this slow, the air will blead as soon as you break the seal.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#8]
 10 Aug 2006
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#5] 11 Aug 2006

David,

I forgot that the cans aren't a typical aerosol can; like a whipped cream can.

From: John (ICTJOHN) [#9]
 11 Aug 2006
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#3] 11 Aug 2006

David,

I blow out the nozzels with shop air after each use............Have not had a problem since. I believe your problem is just the nozzle clogged.
Even after the procedure you use, when you turn the can upside down not ALL of the residue is cleared. Then when you rinse them in water, the hole is so small that the water cannot get through the nozzle, it just gets the outside wet. Same when you store it in water, it can't move through the nozzle to clear any residue.

Have you tried to blow them out with your compressed air line????

 

 

hth,


From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#10]
 11 Aug 2006
To: John (ICTJOHN) [#9] 11 Aug 2006

I don't have a separate compressed air line. My line goes right to the blasting cabinet.

I do get some spirts of flow through the nozzles, which tells me there is some flow. I'll give your theory a try. Thanks!


From: PenTrophy (PENINSULATROPHY) [#11]
 11 Aug 2006
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#1] 11 Aug 2006

I just run the tip under hot water ... seem to clean the dried Cermark out.

Mark


From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#12]
 11 Aug 2006
To: PenTrophy (PENINSULATROPHY) [#11] 11 Aug 2006

It's not the nozzle, I just tested it on a can of spray paint. I put it back on the CerMark can and got nothing but a spirt. It is likely the propellant is out.

From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#13]
 11 Aug 2006
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#12] 11 Aug 2006

Dave;

I've had problems with Cermark also. Cans that I thought I'd never get another spray out of, I shook them for several minutes and cleaned the top of the can where the nozzles attaches and I was able to get them working again.

May not help for you, but it has worked for me.

From: laserman (MIKEMAC) [#14]
 11 Aug 2006
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#13] 11 Aug 2006

David,

Once the can's clog theres not much you can do. I would like to caution everyone about shaking the cans a lot! We had one of the cans puncture and cermark was every ware. The older cans are a different aluminum and shaking them a lot can cause the can to puncture.

What we do with a dead can is to use a pair of dikes for wire cutting and pry up on the seal around the edge just until you start to hear a hiss. Then let it sit over night. then pry up a little more once all of the propellant is gone you can easily remove the top and the stopper.

Then we pour it into our Preval spray bottle DO NOT SHAKE OR COVER THE BOTTLE. leave the bottle opened for another 24 hr period then place the sprayer on try not to shake it as there is some additive that makes the cerdec in the cans spray. It is a lot like shaking a can of soda and then opening it.

We have done this with several cans and as long as you let the propellant slowly leak out you should be fine. Actually if you think the can is empty you may want to do the same thing you will be surprised at how much is still in the can.

EDITED: 11 Aug 2006 by MIKEMAC


From: JHayes55 [#15]
 11 Aug 2006
To: ALL

After I had a can blow up in the cabinet one weekend and over everything in there I never bought another one! Concentrate and Preval sprayer kit works very well. Since I do a lot of stainless for a couple large shops I invested in a small air brush compressor and the cheapest air brush going.
Good quality airbrushes are too fine for the CerMark to spray well - cheap ones have larger openings and can handle the larger particles that are in CerMark. IMHO - best solution to the Cermark problem.

I still keep Preval sprayer with CerMark in the jar for small jobs when I do not want to set up the compressor.


From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#16]
 11 Aug 2006
To: laserman (MIKEMAC) [#14] 24 Aug 2006

quote:
I would like to caution everyone about shaking the cans a lot! We had one of the cans puncture and cermark was every ware.


Are you saying (suggesting?) that over-shaking caused the can to puncture (explode)? Maybe the ball put a hole in the can? I find that extremely hard to believe.

From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#17]
 11 Aug 2006
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#16] 11 Aug 2006

Carl,

If the puncturing ball were an issue, I'm sure we would have heard about a recall long before now.

I did do the long term shake, which produced a little more spray than I have been getting, but still glogged within seconds.

I pryed the top of the can away until I heard a hiss. The can was hissing away in my photo-resist washout basin when I left, so in the morning I should have a pressureless can.

David Takes
Expressions Engraved
Acrylic Awards, Crystal Trophy, Glass Award, Plaques
http://www.expressionsengraved.com

EDITED: 7 Aug 2010 by DATAKES


From: JHayes55 [#18]
 11 Aug 2006
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#16] 11 Aug 2006

Carl
The old style can would become dented where the ball struck the inside of the can - the can became thinner and thinner evertime you shook it up. The can I had explode let go where the ball had made dents in the can. I have never used the "new improved can" and have no experience with it. They stopped making the old can for a while before the new one came out - I would guess that might have been part of the reason.

EDITED: 11 Aug 2006 by JHAYES55


From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#19]
 12 Aug 2006
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#16] 12 Aug 2006

Well, it worked. I had a pressureless can in the morning, pulled the rest of the top off, and now have some useable material.

I appreciate all of the approaches that everyone shared in this thread. It is amazing what one can learn from the diverse experience and practices of others. I guess that what makes this place so valuable to me.


From: laserman (MIKEMAC) [#20]
 24 Aug 2006
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#16] 24 Aug 2006

Carl,

Sorry for the delay in responding I was out of the office for the last ten day's.

Joe hit it right on the ball dented the older cans and that is where the puncture happened. They used a larger ball and thinner cans in the older model cans and that could have been the reason for the change.


Show messages: All  0-19  20

Back to thread list | Login

© 2024 Project Beehive Forum