Full Version: LaserBuzz settings
From: lindalee [#1]
15 Mar 2007
To: ALL
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#2]
15 Mar 2007
To: lindalee [#1] 15 Mar 2007
I am using 1/8 Baltic birch and when in focus I have no problems. Yes the edges do turn a dark brown, but not really black. Some pieces do turn black at the edges, but not badly.
Is that what you are referring to, or do you char on the surface of the cut edge?
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#3]
15 Mar 2007
To: Buzz [#2] 15 Mar 2007
Any words of wisdom for Lindalee?
Thanks,
From: Buzz [#4]
15 Mar 2007
To: lindalee [#1] 16 Mar 2007
Hi Linda,
Try 100% power, 20% speed for 1/8" Baltic Birch.
Usually a 45 watt will cut best at 20 to 25% speed (on an Epilog) and a
35 watt will cut best at 15 to 20% speed.
From: Goodvol (JIMGOOD) [#5]
15 Mar 2007
To: ALL
I've got a 35w Epilog (mini24) and I've been cutting at 25% and it usually cuts through nicely. There might be one or two spots that need a another pass to cut all the way through. I go back and cut just these locations. This speed may help keep some of the burn marks to a minimum.
I see burrn marks when the air assist seems to push the smoke and flames from top to bottom. So, when their is a burn mark it is on the top side of a cut. I wonder if my air assist is blowing too hard or not hard enough? Maybe it isn't blowing in the right location!?!
Anyway, I'm cutting at 25% (100% power) and cutting through 100% or sometimes 95% of all the cuts. If I lower the speed I can get 100% but the burn marks are more noticeable.
I hope that helps!
Jim
From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#6]
15 Mar 2007
To: lindalee [#1] 16 Mar 2007
Maple has the least amount of char of the woods that I use, so compared to that baltic birch does seem more charred to me.
Make sure you are in focus and that air assist is turned on. Also set your frequency (PPI on non-Epilog lasers) low. Around 300-500.
From: Cody (BOBTNAILER) [#7]
16 Mar 2007
To: Goodvol (JIMGOOD) [#5] 16 Mar 2007
I wonder if the problem is caused by the glue in the Birch... :/
When we don't get complete burn-through in spots, we just cut those spots out with a blade. It takes a few minutes to get it looking right, but you typically can't tell the difference.
From: Goodvol (JIMGOOD) [#8]
16 Mar 2007
To: Cody (BOBTNAILER) [#7] 16 Mar 2007
Hey Cody,
Depending on the area, I use my dremel to cut it out. On the exterior cut of the Wall Tributes from Buzz, I like to use the laser for a second pass because the color of the uncut section contrasts the brown from the vector cut. I guess I could color it with a marker but its easier for me to throw it back on the laser and cut that section again. That way the color matches up.
When you do Buzz's patterns are you having to sand all of them when you are done? How do you finish them? Inquiring minds want to know!
Jim
From: Cody (BOBTNAILER) [#9]
16 Mar 2007
To: Goodvol (JIMGOOD) [#8] 16 Mar 2007
Jim,
I don't finish them at all...no sanding, no nothing.
The ONLY exception to that is the background. We spraypaint that (or sometimes use a paper/felt backer for color). If someone were to request that I finish a tribute, I'd just charge them for the extra time and material that it takes.
We don't make much on these, simply because they're already time-consuming to cut out. Not only that, but my opinion is that these things look great with a little smoke residue on the visible surface. Maybe it makes them a little more "rustic" looking. Dunno.
Side note on laser time: I changed the vector order in CorelDraw to make the files a little more efficient. My laser was jumping all over the workpiece before I "optimized" the drawing.
From: Goodvol (JIMGOOD) [#10]
16 Mar 2007
To: Cody (BOBTNAILER) [#9] 16 Mar 2007
Cody,
I also noticed how it jumps around. The first time you watch it you think that's entertaining but when you need to have the laser crank through it quickly, you really wish it would stop doing that! Can you tell me how to approach the optimization? I would love to reduce the cut time.
Thanks for the info!
Jim
From: PenMan [#11]
16 Mar 2007
To: Goodvol (JIMGOOD) [#10] 16 Mar 2007
Hi Jim,
I'll jump in here as I have optimized it too. In fact, I have to re-nest everything to make it fit my 12x18 laser bed. You change the order of the cuts by changing the order in your Object Manager docker. It cuts from top to bottom as listed in the docker. When you map your settings to color in the print section, it prints red lines first, then the black lines and finally the blue lines. So, you should always have the red lines at the top in the docker in the fastest order, followed by the black lines again in the best order and finally the blue lines again arranged in the fastest order for your drawing. Just in case you don't know how to rearrance the order in the docker, you just pick the line you want to move with your mouse in the docker and drag it to the new order in the docker. I hope this makes sense.
From: Cody (BOBTNAILER) [#12]
16 Mar 2007
To: PenMan [#11] 16 Mar 2007
I don't know whether it's just the Epilog drivers that do this....but my machine starts at the very BOTTOM of the Object Manager, and works its way UP. That seems backwards, but it's the way it happens for me.
If you already have the LaserBuzz software, and Tom B gives his blessing, I'd be glad to send you my "optimized" blank file. Keep in mind that it only has the ROPE marks in the right order. Anything that makes it custom will have to be done separately, if you want it done at all. Just getting the rope marks to run in order saved about 5 minutes (and LOTS of movement) per tribute.
From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#13]
16 Mar 2007
To: Cody (BOBTNAILER) [#12] 16 Mar 2007
Actually, if you think about it, when you add an object to a drawing it goes into the object manager. Then add another one and it goes on top of the first one. Add the next and again it goes on top.
So the first one you placed in the drawing is on the bottom of the list. The program engraves from the bottom of the list, engraving the first object you placed, then the second one you placed, etc...
From: Cody (BOBTNAILER) [#14]
16 Mar 2007
To: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#13] 16 Mar 2007
Dave,
I understand the logic, but in my twisted little mind, it would make more sense to put the first item first, second item second, and so on.
That's just me.
As long as I understand HOW we get from point A to Point B, I'm fine with either way. ;-)
Cody
From: lindalee [#15]
16 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#2] 17 Mar 2007
From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#16]
16 Mar 2007
To: lindalee [#15] 16 Mar 2007
2500 freq sounds way too high. Try 500.
It's also possible that the wood you got has knots or voids which are making the cuts uneven.
From: lindalee [#17]
16 Mar 2007
To: Buzz [#4] 16 Mar 2007
Tom,
I've set the speed as low as 5, power to 100, increased the freq upto 2500, it cuts thru but way too much burn. I set the red to 50 speed & 10 power to gett good resolution without burning pieces off.
I've done lots of the baby announcements, but I've never had this much trouble.
I'm starting to think it may not be all operator trouble, I'm going to give Epilog a call tomorrow.
Thanks for the help.
From: lindalee [#18]
16 Mar 2007
To: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#16] 16 Mar 2007
Dave,
I've tried the settings starting at 300 & increased by 100 until it cut thru, long process, since I'm not very good at this trial & error thing.
From: Goodvol (JIMGOOD) [#19]
16 Mar 2007
To: lindalee [#18] 16 Mar 2007
Linda,
I cut the red lines using 100 speed at 30 power. It seems to work good. The cuts are very sharp and I get a slightly thicker line by cutting slightly out of focus. What works for me is to manually focus and then drop the table 5 to 10 steps of the focus button. Ten steps works good for me except I wouldn't go that far with really fine text. Do some trial and error.
For the blue and black lines, I sure wouldn't slow down the speed too much. You'll really char the wood at 5-10% speed. I'd try somewhere between 20-25% speed.
I'd set the frequency to 500.
Red: 30 power; 100 speed, 500 freq
Black and Blue: 100 power; 25 speed, 500 freq
Give it a try and see if that helps. (Also, cut red "out of focus" and black and blue at proper focus if the red cuts don't have enough depth of field)
Jim
From: Goodvol (JIMGOOD) [#20]
16 Mar 2007
To: PenMan [#11] 18 Mar 2007
Hey Pen Man,
I appreciate the explanation of how the Object Manager Docker works. I still have a lot to learn but I'm a willing student! I'll explore the docker and see if I can get proficient at optimizing the cutting sequence.
I'm off to Disney World in the morning so it will have to wait until I get back. If you have to place all the cuts in the order you want them performed, that sounds like a long and tedious activity. Maybe it isn't as bad as it sounds! I'll take a look.
I appreciate the help!
Jim
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