Full Version: Newbie needs advise
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#3]
28 Mar 2007
To: Mike (MDUFFY) [#1] 29 Mar 2007
Welcome to the family. We look forward to getting to know you and helping you.....and learning with you and from you.
As for your question, what happens with photo grav is that it automates a lot of what you would have to do in photoshop.
There is a lady on the forum by the name of Barbara, ( rgile) that does a lot of photo engraving whose work I consider the best......so I would suggest you touch bases with her regarding photo grav.
You will find LOTS of experience and friendly people here. I have been on the forum for about 3 years now, and ALWAYS learn something new, as well as CONTINUALLY amazed at how helpful folks in this industry are.
Welcome home.
EDITED: 28 Mar 2007 by DGL
From: jeanettebrewer (JEANETTEBREWER2) [#4]
28 Mar 2007
To: Mike (MDUFFY) [#1] 29 Mar 2007
Mike,
Welcome to Engraving Etc.! This article doesn't deal, specifically, with photos on stone but has some information that might be helpful to you in preparing photos for your laser without PhotoGrav.
Go to http://www.engravingconcepts.com/newsletters-chron.htm and click on Engraving Concepts Today 2006 #3 (the 2nd choice in the chronological list) and take a look at page 2.
Good luck with your new laser!
From: Cody (BOBTNAILER) [#5]
28 Mar 2007
To: Mike (MDUFFY) [#1] 29 Mar 2007
Mike,
Welcome aboard!!
We do a good bit of photo work, mostly on acrylic and black marble. If you'd like, I'll be happy to send you an example of the "before" and "after" Photograv files. Just let me know!!
This forum can be a true lifeline for your business....great folks here!
Cody
From: Mike (MDUFFY) [#6]
29 Mar 2007
To: Cody (BOBTNAILER) [#5] 29 Mar 2007
Cody,
Thanks for your reply. It would be great to get some samples from you. I would really appreciate that. I'm not sure how it works on this site that well yet but if you need my email it's
info@mduffyenterprises.com
I assume then that you use PhotoGrav and would recommend it? Any tips on where/how to buy it at a discounted price?
Thanks again.
Mike Duffy
From: Mike (MDUFFY) [#7]
29 Mar 2007
To: ALL
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#8]
29 Mar 2007
To: Mike (MDUFFY) [#7] 29 Mar 2007
Somewhere in the vast archives are about three posts of mine that go step-by-step in how to prepare the photo for engraving on wood, black brass, and marble. The only real difference is the resolution for these materials, but even then not much difference. It is done with Corel Paint. Once you get the hang of it it is easy.
I need to track them down and do a comprehensive tips article when I have some time.
From: Cody (BOBTNAILER) [#9]
29 Mar 2007
To: Mike (MDUFFY) [#6] 29 Mar 2007
Mike,
I've never seen Photograv priced under $395.
I'm going to email you a couple of sample files in CorelDRAW. We are running X3 - what format would you like for me to send them to you in?
Cody
From: Mike (MDUFFY) [#10]
29 Mar 2007
To: Cody (BOBTNAILER) [#9] 29 Mar 2007
From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#11]
29 Mar 2007
To: Mike (MDUFFY) [#7] 29 Mar 2007
Photograv is a program designed to convert grayscale images into dithered bitmap (pure black and white) images. It is similar to using the conversion in Photoshop to bitmap mode, or in PhotoPaint to Black & White.
The difference is that Photograv gives far more control over the conversion process than either of those paint programs. Photograv also has simulation built in so you get a preview of what the image might look like when engraved on the selected material. That preview is somewhat useful but not the most important part of Photograv.
I find that the purely automated side of Photograv is lacking in quality compared to the interactive side of Photograv. I can get just as good a conversion to a dithered image from Photoshop by using sharpening and then converting the mode to bitmap. But using the interactive side of Photograv gives much finer control over that conversion and than you can get with Photoshop or PhotoPaint.
The dithering conversion in Photograv (or Photoshop & Photopaint) is far superior to doing a halftone conversion in one of the paint programs. Dithering allows a much higher quality image to be engraved than halftone can ever hope to produce.
If you have Photoshop, then try doing some sharpening and then change the mode of the image to Bitmap. Invert it if needed (dark materials that engrave light need it). Then engrave it. You can also do that in PhotoPaint from CorelDraw.
If you want a bit more control, and expect to be making decent money engraving photographs, then I feel Photograv is a reasonable expense. If you are doing it for the fun of it, or are happy with the results from dithering in Photoshop or PhotoPaint, then you don't need Photograv.
From: Mike (MDUFFY) [#12]
30 Mar 2007
To: ALL