Full Version: Reverse Engraving
From: sprinter [#13]
17 Apr 2007
To: Brian (BRIAN_R) [#12] 17 Apr 2007
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#14]
17 Apr 2007
To: Brian (BRIAN_R) [#12] 17 Apr 2007
I have done some extruded and hate it. There are always lines from the uneven mix of monomer and polymer in it. They will be less apparent if engraved lightly, but will still be there. I would never use it for unfilled lettering.
Just my opinion.
From: laserman (MIKEMAC) [#15]
17 Apr 2007
To: Brian (BRIAN_R) [#12] 17 Apr 2007
Brian,
Try the texturizer switch in the driver under the advanced tab put a check mark into the Enhancements and then into the texturizer.
This will randomly scatter the dots and gives a unique background it works well on large engraved out areas of acrylic. The file will be larger so be aware.
From: Rodney Gold (RODNEY_GOLD) [#16]
17 Apr 2007
To: ALL
Isn't 200 DPI rather low if you want to clear/hog out an area for filling?
With the spot size of a 2" lens it means you are barely at a smooth stepover - ie the distance between scan lines in the y axis is too high and you dont have a spot overlap leading to a ridged finish. Its like furrowing a Field with too high a spacing tween furrows.
From: Brian (BRIAN_R) [#17]
17 Apr 2007
To: ALL
I've tried 200, 300 and 600 dpi.
I think it's several things that I'm doing wrong. One is that the area I'm lasering through is a very wide number. The small logo next to it didn't do so bad.
I just got back from Lowes and I just don't see any acrylic spray paint, laquer or enamal is it. Someone mentioned Krylon someplace, maybe I'll try that. I'll slow it down to 50% speed and 50% power also.
I'll try a few more things tonight!
Thanks for all the help.
From: dun_it (OREGON) [#18]
17 Apr 2007
To: Brian (BRIAN_R) [#17] 17 Apr 2007
From: Peter [#19]
17 Apr 2007
To: Brian (BRIAN_R) [#17] 17 Apr 2007
hit the yellow pages and ask your hardware stores and paint supply shops for acrylic latex or water based pressure pack paints.
Krylon make solvent based paints, they may have a water based version as well, pay to check.
any solvent based paint will give you trouble with crazing as previously mentioned.
regards
Peter
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#20]
17 Apr 2007
To: Brian (BRIAN_R) [#17] 17 Apr 2007
From: logojohn [#21]
17 Apr 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#20] 17 Apr 2007
Is that only if you are trying to fill laser engraved letters with it.
I did some big pieces and just painted the whole back. One had holes for plates routed in the front and another I lasered through the paint and just left it frosted.
Is that going to be a crazing problem or just if you paint after it is lasered.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#22]
17 Apr 2007
To: logojohn [#21] 17 Apr 2007
I tried it on lasered and rotary. The lasered was worse but one piece surprised me.
It crazed instantly, then over the next few hours got really bad, totally unusable. After redoing it and using acrylic paints, I looked at it again a few days later. Almost all of the crazing had healed as the solvents left. I know a lot of chemistry, but wish I did not have to keep getting lessons in the real world.
From: Boz (CHEDDARHEAD) [#23]
17 Apr 2007
To: ALL
From: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#24]
18 Apr 2007
To: ALL
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#25]
18 Apr 2007
To: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#24] Unread
From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#26]
18 Apr 2007
To: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#24] Unread
Pronunciation: 'krAz
Function: verb
Inflected Form(s): crazed; craz·ing
Etymology: Middle English crasen to crush, craze, of Scandinavian origin; akin to Old Swedish krasa to crush
transitive verb
1 obsolete : BREAK, SHATTER
2 : to produce minute cracks on the surface or glaze of <crazed glass>
3 : to make insane or as if insane <crazed by pain and fear>
intransitive verb
1 archaic : SHATTER, BREAK
2 : to become insane
3 : to develop a mesh of fine cracks
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