Doming - testing the waters. - Engraving Etc. Forum

<body> <h1>Full Version: <a href="https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.55">Doming - testing the waters.</a></h1><a name="a1004_55"></a><p><b>From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.55">#55</a>]<br /> 7 Apr 2005<br /><b>To: Ken D. (KDEVORY)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.54">#54</a>] 7 Apr 2005</p> <p>Best way to keep the heat down if it affects the product is to put a small whisper fan over a hole over a lamp socket blowing out. Lay the product on a small furnace filter so air and not dust will be drawn into the box.</p> <p> </p> <hr /><a name="a1004_56"></a><p><b>From: Ken D. (KDEVORY)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.56">#56</a>]<br /> 7 Apr 2005<br /><b>To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.55">#55</a>] 7 Apr 2005</p> Some really good suggestions. I need to make the hole and try natural convection first. <hr /><a name="a1004_57"></a><p><b>From: JayBeeOz</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.57">#57</a>]<br /> 8 Apr 2005<br /><b>To: Ken D. (KDEVORY)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.54">#54</a>] 8 Apr 2005</p> <p>Ken<br /> Its easy to forget about those little badges just laying there getting a tan...It happened to me frequently. I ended up getting a couple of Timers for a small toaster oven from the oven manufacturers spare part division. Tthey are Mechanical/Electrical timers usually with a 30 - 60 minute range. Spin them around to how many minutes you want to cure for and they 'tick' away and turn off the lamps for you. (They have to be hard wired into the lights circuit) <br /> My cabinet has two seperate areas, the top contains 4x 15W Blacklights and the bottom 4x 15 UVC tubes. (these are stamped GE/Hitachi). The two sections are light tight, so not a lot of airflow. I do however have the Ballasts that drive the tubes, and the Flourecent Starters in a seperate section that is isolated from the curing chambers and have vent holes for cooling.<br /> The badges get only just warm but not warm enough to cause the epoxy to flow off the edge. If you increased the distance another inch and a 1/4, (I think that works out to around the 80mm mark, this may help with the heat side of things. I have found that if I have too much epoxy on the surface I tend to get "Mattress" corners on the badges after curing under the UVC Lamps. Little ripples that start at each corner and and run in towards the middle. My domes are normally around 2 - 3mm high in the very centre of the badge.</p> <p>John </p><hr /><a name="a1004_58"></a><p><b>From: Ken D. (KDEVORY)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.58">#58</a>]<br /> 8 Apr 2005<br /><b>To: JayBeeOz</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.57">#57</a>] 8 Apr 2005</p> <p>Yesterday I added a 0.5" hole over each bulbs base, and put 1/8" raisers under the box. It made a big difference. </p> <p>I also expanded the keyring hole to 0.2". When the hole is too small the surface tension pulls the epoxy over it. (and therefore into it.)</p> <p>==<br /> For those following this thread the HP Premium Plus Glossy Photo Paper won't work. I had previously posted that the paper will and the ink won't. The paper won't. (I didn't check my test sample well enough the other day.) I have some other papers I plan on trying.</p> <hr /><a name="a1004_59"></a><p><b>From: Barbara (RGILE)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.59">#59</a>]<br /> 8 Apr 2005<br /><b>To: Ken D. (KDEVORY)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.6">#6</a>] 8 Apr 2005</p> <p>Ken,</p> <p>As a former nail technician, I used UV light to make acrylic gel fingernails. I had a UV Lamp that was big enough inside for a whole hand to cure. Perhaps that would work and be relatively cheaper than making one. You could slip small item into it, but not larger ones.</p> <p>Just a thought. You never know what might work for someone.<br /> Barbara<br /> RGile Engravers</p> <hr /><a name="a1004_60"></a><p><b>From: Ken D. (KDEVORY)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.60">#60</a>]<br /> 8 Apr 2005<br /><b>To: Barbara (RGILE)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.59">#59</a>] 12 Apr 2005</p> Barbara,<br /> My box is working well for me. Do you have any idea what the nail curer cost, or where to get them. Others may be interested, who don't want to wire up their own box. <hr /><a name="a1004_61"></a><p><b>From: GBengraver</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.61">#61</a>]<br /> 8 Apr 2005<br /><b>To: Rodney Gold (RODNEY_GOLD)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.39">#39</a>] 8 Apr 2005</p> <p>Is the 2 part resin readily available?<br /> Do you need to special order them from a wholesaler?<br /> Is odor an issue with either method?</p> <hr /><a name="a1004_62"></a><p><b>From: Rodney Gold (RODNEY_GOLD)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.62">#62</a>]<br /> 8 Apr 2005<br /><b>To: GBengraver</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.61">#61</a>] 15 Apr 2005</p> <p>Its easilky available , I live in african country , South africa and I have multiple sources here , so I hardly doubt that in the USA it would be even easier to get.<br /> We have no issues with it odor or irritant wise , our applicator ladies wear gloves and safety glasses , prolonged contact can cause irritations and they arent really such great stuff to work with , having all sorts of horrible sounding chemical names in em like isocyantes - I tend to think anything with cyanide in its name (or any derivative of) is probaly a little nasty.<br /> It will definately irritate your eyes if you get it into them.<br /> You can try it real easy by getting a dispenser type gun and carts , lots of doming suppliers keep it , a local search for 2 part water clear resin or urethane doming , epoxy doming etc should bring a few names up<br /> If you want to use bulk and get the benefits of the much cheaper price , you need a mixer and dispenser which can cost at least $2k or more</p><hr /><a name="a1004_63"></a><p><b>From: Barbara (RGILE)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.63">#63</a>]<br /> 12 Apr 2005<br /><b>To: Ken D. (KDEVORY)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.60">#60</a>] 12 Apr 2005</p> <p>Hi Ken,</p> <p>I got mine from a Hairdressing supplier. They run around 100.00 and the material is nail acrylic and is also the same stuff that dentist's use for bonding teeth. So a dental supplier would also be a good avenue for the acrylic. After it's cured it leaves a sticky surface that is taken off with a soulotion of alcohal. so I hope this helps a little.</p> <p>It's would be good for small jobs.</p> <p>Barbara</p> <hr /><a name="a1004_64"></a><p><b>From: lisa (LISASANDERS)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.64">#64</a>]<br /> 2 May 2005<br /><b>To: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.13">#13</a>] 2 May 2005</p> <p>Hi David...</p> <p>My husband and I attended the sublimation class at Coast Graphics on April 9th and saw you there. We were very impressed with your work - Fantastic stuff!</p> <p>We purchased the doming epoxy while there and have just tried it out for the first time on a photograph. It didn't adhere to the photo. Can you tell us why? It looked great - no bubbles, shiny, etc. - but it didn't stick. What materials can we dome on? Evidently not photographs? I'm going to try it on a name badge next and am assuming it will turn out just fine. </p> <p>Thanks for your help....</p> <p> </p> <hr /><a name="a1004_65"></a><p><b>From: Ken D. (KDEVORY)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.65">#65</a>]<br /> 2 May 2005<br /><b>To: lisa (LISASANDERS)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.64">#64</a>] 2 May 2005</p> <p>Lisa,</p> <p>It depends on the "paper" and the ink. Yes you can dome photos, sometimes.</p> <p>First test the paper without the photo. It won't stick to HP premium plus photo glossy, but will stick to my ordinary office paper. It also sticks to some polyester paper I have. According to some other posts its due to UV inhibitors in some papers and inks. They leach into the epoxy forming a thin layer that won't cure. -I'm assuming you're using UV cure epoxy. </p> <p>I also found that I need to dry out the ink. There's an old stove here with a pilot light. during my testing with small photos I put them on a piece of glass on the stove top above the pilot. For production I'd try some of the other suggestions made. </p> <hr /><a name="a1004_66"></a><p><b>From: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.66">#66</a>]<br /> 2 May 2005<br /><b>To: lisa (LISASANDERS)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.64">#64</a>] 2 May 2005</p> <p>Hi Lisa,</p> <p>It was nice to meet you at the CGS "Learning Center" event. I'm happy to hear you're taking the plunge into epoxy doming.</p> <p>The fact that some substrates don't lend themselves to doming, has been covered, either in this thread or another. I'm not sure which.</p> <p>The short story is, some paper/ink combinations don't work. You're experiencing that for yourself.</p> <p>What substrate are you using for the namebadge? Metal and plastic should be fine. If you're using a paper, it will probably need to be poly-based.</p> <p>If you use a paper, make sure your ink is completely dry before doming.</p><p class="edit_text">EDITED: 2 May 2005 by DGL</p> <hr /><a name="a1004_67"></a><p><b>From: lisa (LISASANDERS)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.67">#67</a>]<br /> 3 May 2005<br /><b>To: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.66">#66</a>] 3 May 2005</p> Thanks David. This is a great forum.....I'm enjoying reading all the messages - it's very helpful. Great job! <hr /><a name="a1004_68"></a><p><b>From: lisa (LISASANDERS)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.68">#68</a>]<br /> 3 May 2005<br /><b>To: Ken D. (KDEVORY)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.65">#65</a>] 3 May 2005</p> Thanks Ken. The information was very helpful. We'll give it another shot and see what happens! <hr /><a name="a1004_69"></a><p><b>From: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.69">#69</a>]<br /> 3 May 2005<br /><b>To: lisa (LISASANDERS)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.67">#67</a>] 3 May 2005</p> <p>Lisa,</p> <p>I'm happy to hear you're enjoying the forum. It's become my labor of love.</p> <p>I'm pleased, the posts are so frequent and informative, but the best is yet to come!</p> <p>Do you know the differences between CO2 and YAG laser engraving?</p> <p>Do you know the difference between "Flying Optics" and "Steered Beam" laser equipment?</p> <p>Have you ever been behind the scenes at a high-production YAG laser engraving facility?</p> <p>If not, you will!</p> <p>We're in the formative stages of developing our first "Video Field Trip", which will be made available to the forum members!</p> <p>ÃƒÆ’Ã†â€™ÃƒÂ¢Ã¢â€šÂ¬Ã…Â¡ÃƒÆ’Ã¢â‚¬Å¡Ãƒâ€šÃ‚Â </p><p class="edit_text">EDITED: 3 May 2005 by DGL</p> <hr /><p align="center">Show messages:  <a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.1">1-14</a>  <a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.15">15-34</a>  <a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=1004.35">35-54</a>  55-69</p> <h4><a href="lthread_list.php?webtag=EE">Back to thread list</a> | <a href="llogout.php?webtag=EE">Login</a></h4> <h6>© 2025 <a href="http://www.beehiveforum.net/" target="_blank">Project Beehive Forum</a></h6> </body>