From: logojohn [#8]
17 Aug 2005
To: Colin (MATROPHY) [#5] 18 Aug 2005
I don's suppose you have an old new hermes pantograph laying around.
I use some t slot clamps and anchor the hermes vice to the xenetech table. the bottom is pretty flat after sliding it out of the pedestal holder.
Maybe there is some other flat bottom vice at the home center or web that might work to.
The xenetech bridge will raise up over 7 inches so it won't be a problem there.
I havent done a silver pig in a long time. If I remember I put a flat surface on one end of the vice to rest the legs on to help stabilize it. then I just put a bunch of rags at the top. When the vice is tightened the rags tightened around it and stopped it from scratching the rounded top.
Here is a picture of a silver boot held in the vice from the archive.
http://www.engravingetc.org/forum/getattachment.php?webtag=EE&hash=5f8798c68fc03d9eedf6ee0e70872a24
From: UncleSteve [#9]
17 Aug 2005
To: John (ICTJOHN) [#7] 18 Aug 2005
Have you tried good old Play Doh? It will harden overnight and is easy to break away.
I forgot the recipe, but there is a simple way to make your own and it is very cheap to make......
If you put the PlayDoh in a small box that will fit the pig or any other item gives you a custom form with square sides to hold it stable while engraving.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#10]
18 Aug 2005
To: ALL
Diamond-drag engraving, even when performed with light downward pressure, requires the substrate to be held very securely.
The mold method can be effective with thinner, relatively flat items, such as medals, but holding the stainless steel pig bank in a mold (securely) would be a dicey proposition.
Worth a try, but risky.
My opinion is based on engraving many items where a combination of a jigging and manual pressure (holding in place with fingers while engraving) has been necessary.EDITED: 18 Aug 2005 by DGL
From: Colin (MATROPHY) [#11]
18 Aug 2005
To: logojohn [#8] 18 Aug 2005
Thanks for the great info. I hadn't thought about the straightedge along the feet. I bet I can find a vise that'll work now that I see the picture.
From: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#12]
18 Aug 2005
To: Colin (MATROPHY) [#1] 18 Aug 2005
I have a quick way of making jigs that we use regularly for screen printing odd shaped pieces.
Get a piece of plywood or aluminum scrap that you want as your foundation board...Buy a small can of bondo...Mix enough to put a pretty deep dollop on the board. Use a piece of saran wrap to cover your piece (the pig) with to protect it from the bondo, Place the mixed, soft bondo on the board in the location and depth you estimate to be appropriate, press the pig into the bondo and let cure until it is rubbery....remove before it hardens fully. Total time will be about 5-10 mins to make a very nice fitting jig for all sorts of odds and ends. The bondo will be fully cured a short time after it is rubbery, so you need to be on top of it. Bondo is very hard and should easily last the life of the project and beyond.
Good luck,
Brian Genrich
Rallye Productions Inc.
1-800-236-2036
From: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#13]
18 Aug 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#10] 18 Aug 2005
David,
With a deep enough mold there is no risk of rocking. Bondo is low cost, It doesn't shrink like many of the other suggested materials would, and it's hard as a rock when it is cured. The other cool thing about it is that it only takes a few mins. to know if it works well or not.
You can easily use a piece of plywood as a base with a piece of angle iron screwed into the bottom to clamp to and make it a mountable fixture.
We have used this to drag engrave medals of various types, and to screen print all kinds of different shaped pieces and it holds them like a glove.
Brian G.
EDITED: 18 Aug 2005 by RALLYGUY1
From: logojohn [#14]
18 Aug 2005
To: Colin (MATROPHY) [#11] 18 Aug 2005
I have the allgraphics vice to.
Sometimes I can use it for some things without reconfiguring the whole machine with the hermes vice.
I added a block to the top to hold some thicker things.
You might be able to add a thicker block deep enough for the piggy.
Mine only opens a little over 3 inches but that might be enough.
You can use the threaded holes in the vice or tap some new ones
to screw the blocks to.
If you cant find screws long enough you may have to get a threaded rod and cut it off and secure with a nut.
The vice holding pegs in the vice are removeable if you pull hard enough with a pliers so you don't have to drill another hole in the blocks.
I have also took some thin wood pieces and cut out arcs to hold
round objects that wouldn't fit in a jig.
From: Colin (MATROPHY) [#15]
18 Aug 2005
To: logojohn [#14] 18 Aug 2005
Thanks - if you didn't know, the holes in the Allgraphics vice are 1/8" and 3/16" diameter. I bought some brass rods from a hobby supply store that I use to cut longer pins with. I like the Allgraphics vise. It allows me to do a lot more stuff.
From: Colin (MATROPHY) [#16]
18 Aug 2005
To: logojohn [#14] 18 Aug 2005
By the way - what hole spacing did you use to drill the block - what's the distance center-to-center between the holes?
From: Colin (MATROPHY) [#17]
18 Aug 2005
To: Colin (MATROPHY) [#16] 18 Aug 2005
I know I can measure myself - it looks like 1.5" but if you already know what it is...
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#18]
18 Aug 2005
To: ALL
Thanks to everyone for making this a very informative thread. Between the Bondo molds (and other materials) and the various vise/jig solutions, Colin should be able to tackle this job.
Looks like there are numerous "Stunt Engravers" in our ranks! :-)
From: logojohn [#19]
19 Aug 2005
To: Colin (MATROPHY) [#17] 19 Aug 2005
I used 1.5
I made a layout the size of the block with the holes drawn.
I printed it out and positioned it on the block for drilling.
The holes can be a little off and oversized and still hold the block when the vice is closed.
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