Color Filling - Engraving Etc. Forum

<body> <h1>Full Version: <a href="https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.11">Color Filling</a></h1><a name="a2340_11"></a><p><b>From: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.11">#11</a>]<br /> 19 Nov 2005<br /><b>To: Zak</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.3">#3</a>] 19 Nov 2005</p> <p>Zak,</p> <p>Rub 'n Buff (RNB) is used pretty much as its name implies.</p> <p>You rub the product into your image, with your fingers, let dry for a short while, then clean (buff) the surface of the substrate, with a clean cloth.</p> <p>Stubborn areas of RNB, on the surface, can be removed by adding a small amount of WD-40 to the cloth.</p> <p>If you're cleaning an area of wide coverage, to prevent the removal of color from the image, wrap your cloth around something flat, (ruler, piece of engraving stock) and use circular motions to remove the unwanted RNB.</p><p class="edit_text">EDITED: 19 Nov 2005 by DGL</p> <hr /><a name="a2340_12"></a><p><b>From: Zak</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.12">#12</a>]<br /> 19 Nov 2005<br /><b>To: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.11">#11</a>] 19 Nov 2005</p> <p>David,</p> <p>Great advice. Other than the ruler trick (which is awesome), I did primarily that. It just seem to get really messy and difficult to get off the surface. </p> <p>Myabe the ruler will make that easier. The other problem is that the cloth starts spreading the color really quickly. </p> <p>The stuff has been out for a while, so I imagine it has to work.</p> <hr /><a name="a2340_13"></a><p><b>From: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.13">#13</a>]<br /> 19 Nov 2005<br /><b>To: Zak</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.12">#12</a>] 19 Nov 2005</p> <p>Zak,</p> <p>That's where the WD-40 comes in handy. It will break down the RNB and creates enough of a "glide" to prevent color from being pulled out of your image.</p> <p>Make sure to keep changing to a clean area of the cloth, while cleaning, or you'll just smear the color around.</p> <p>Here are a couple of other threads on color-filling:</p> <p><a href="http://www.engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=66.1">http://www.engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=66.1</a></p> <p><a href="http://www.engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=77.1">http://www.engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=77.1</a></p><p class="edit_text">EDITED: 19 Nov 2005 by DGL</p> <hr /><a name="a2340_14"></a><p><b>From: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.14">#14</a>]<br /> 19 Nov 2005<br /><b>To: ALL</b></p> Other than Rub 'n Buff (paste) and Krylon (spray paint) methods, here's what's referred to as the "flood" method of color filling.<br /> <br /> I use this method almost exclusively.<br /> <br /> Using a "quick dry" enamel, cover the entire area of engraving with paint. No need to use a brush; you're just "flooding" the area with paint.<br /> <br /> Notice the various colors of paint on what I call my "paint stick." When changing from one color to another, all that's necessary, is to clean the stick. No messing around with brushes.<br /> <br /> <div align="center"><img src="http://engravingetc.org/DGL/upload/Applying White Paint.jpg" alt="Applying White Paint.jpg" /></div><br /> <br /> Using a business card, (preferrably those outdated), "squeegie" the excess paint from the surface. The goal is to have as little paint as possible remaining on the surface. A thin film is ideal.<br /> <br /> <div align="center"><img src="http://engravingetc.org/DGL/upload/Card Squeegee.jpg" alt="Card Squeegee.jpg" /> </div><br /> <br /> The following picture shows about as much paint as you'll want remaining on the item's surface.<br /> <br /> <div align="center"><img src="http://engravingetc.org/DGL/upload/Squeegeeclose.jpg" alt="Squeegeeclose.jpg" /> </div><br /> <br /> Scrape the excess paint back into the jar (recycling) and wipe the card clean, onto a paper towel. Re-squeegie your item, if necessary.<br /> <br /> <div align="center"><img src="http://engravingetc.org/DGL/upload/Clean Squeegee.jpg" alt="Clean Squeegee.jpg" /> </div><br /> <br /> Let the paint dry for 10-15 minutes, before attempting to do the final cleaning. Don't let the paint dry completely, or you'll have an ordeal on your hands, in trying to remove the excess from the surface of your item.<br /> <br /> You can get a lot of mileage from both the paint and your business cards, using this method. I once paint-filled 300 walkie-talkies from one jar of paint. <br /> <br /> I like the brand of paint shown in the background of the previous photo. Made by Plasti-Kote, called Odds 'n' Ends, it comes in a wide spectrum of colors and is usually dry enough for final cleanup in about 10-15 minutes. I usually find this brand of paint in hardware stores. Costs about $3.00 per jar.<br /> <br /> <div align="center"><img src="http://engravingetc.org/DGL/upload/Solventclean.jpg" alt="Solventclean.jpg" /> </div><br /> <br /> Enamel is more stubborn than Rub 'n Buff and requires a two-step cleaning process. I use naptha (lighter fluid, Ronsonol, Zippo) on a clean cloth, to remove the bulk of the paint.<br /> <br /> <div align="center"><img src="http://engravingetc.org/DGL/upload/WDFinalclean.jpg" alt="WDFinalclean.jpg" /> </div><br /> <br /> I then follow up with WD-40 as a means of removing the leftover "haze" as well as it acting much like Armorall and producing a slick clean surface.<br /> <br /> Try it. You'll like it! <span class="e_smile" title=":-)"><span class="e__">:-)</span> </span><p class="edit_text">EDITED: 29 Jul 2008 by DGL</p> <hr /><a name="a2340_15"></a><p><b>From: Zak</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.15">#15</a>]<br /> 19 Nov 2005<br /><b>To: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.14">#14</a>] 19 Nov 2005</p> David,<br /> <br /> Wow. Thank you for the detail... The photos are great. Next to my wife (who is in the room ;-)) this forum is the greatest thing I've found.<br /> <br /> Can't wait to try all of these great techniques.<br /> <br /> Thanks<br /> <br /> Zak <hr /><a name="a2340_16"></a><p><b>From: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.16">#16</a>]<br /> 19 Nov 2005<br /><b>To: Zak</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.15">#15</a>] 19 Nov 2005</p> Good luck Zak. Stay tuned. We have much more up our collective sleeve.<br /> <br /> We're happy to be running a close second to your wife. <span class="e_smile" title=":-)"><span class="e__">:-)</span> </span> <hr /><a name="a2340_17"></a><p><b>From: Rodney Gold (RODNEY_GOLD)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.17">#17</a>]<br /> 20 Nov 2005<br /><b>To: ALL</b></p> <p>A tip for RnBuff is to use turpentine , all the wax based metal/coloured pastes clean up well with turps.<br /> There are much cheaper alternatives than RnBuff found at any craft shop with far mor colour choices too. Gilding pastes etc.<br /> Meths will remove excess dried ducos etc without damaging most surfaces and it also doesnt matte the surface of the paint like thinners etc, but be careful with lasered plastics as meths will also cause stress cracking (as will most solvents) <br /> We buy recycled scrap fabric and use the thin fluff free t-shirt material stretched over a wood block or scrap pex squares as a "rubber" </p> <p>Be carefull with RnB and other wax based products with stuff like granite and marble or other porous stuff , it stains the surface and is impossible to remove , same with paints on anodised surfaces which arent often well sealed.</p><hr /><a name="a2340_18"></a><p><b>From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.18">#18</a>]<br /> 20 Nov 2005<br /><b>To: Rodney Gold (RODNEY_GOLD)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.17">#17</a>] 20 Nov 2005</p> Paint thinner is also instant with RnB. It is also cheap and not too flammable. <hr /><a name="a2340_19"></a><p><b>From: Ed (EMANA)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.19">#19</a>]<br /> 20 Nov 2005<br /><b>To: ALL</b></p> <p>David,</p> <p>Excellent photos! Can you include one before finish coat and one after you clean?</p> <p>Ed</p><hr /><a name="a2340_20"></a><p><b>From: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.20">#20</a>]<br /> 20 Nov 2005<br /><b>To: Ed (EMANA)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.19">#19</a>] 23 Nov 2005</p> <p>Thank you Ed. Credit for the photos goes to my better half, Robyn.</p> <p>Sorry to tease. Those were a few photos I had handy. They're a few of the images I plan to use in an in-depth "artitorial" for lack of a better term.</p> <p>Due to popular demand (yours) I've gone back and added a few photos to my post.</p> <p>The real story is about the engraving of communications equipment (walkie-talkies) which require paint-filling.</p> <p>Everyone needs a niche and engraving two-radios has been one of my strongest.</p><p class="edit_text">EDITED: 20 Nov 2005 by DGL</p> <hr /><a name="a2340_21"></a><p><b>From: Ed (EMANA)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.21">#21</a>]<br /> 23 Nov 2005<br /><b>To: ALL</b></p> <p>David,</p> <p>More Great Photos. Thanks!</p> <p>What type of engraving is this (Laser or Rotary)?</p> <p>Ed</p><hr /><a name="a2340_22"></a><p><b>From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.22">#22</a>]<br /> 23 Nov 2005<br /><b>To: Ed (EMANA)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.21">#21</a>] 23 Nov 2005</p> <p>Ed,</p> <p>David would be dangerous (stunt-like) with a laser engraver, so we keep him away from that type of equipment. It was done with a rotary engraver.</p> <hr /><a name="a2340_23"></a><p><b>From: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.23">#23</a>]<br /> 23 Nov 2005<br /><b>To: Ed (EMANA)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.21">#21</a>] 23 Nov 2005</p> Ed,<br /> <br /> To elaborate on David Takes' assessment of my safety quotient, it's rotary engraving at about .015 deep. <span class="e_smile" title=":-)"><span class="e__">:-)</span> </span> <hr /><a name="a2340_24"></a><p><b>From: Bieb (HABIEB)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.24">#24</a>]<br /> 26 Nov 2005<br /><b>To: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.14">#14</a>] 27 Nov 2005</p> <p>David, Great pics and explanation!! Can this method be used on Acrylic? or will it cause hazing or frosting? I have a job coming up where I will be laser engraving and gold color filling 300-600 retirement gifts. I was able to convince the school board to go with a great looking acrylic award. I am now trying to figure out how I want to accomplish the work. The awards are not due until late May for the retirement dinner. I will start to purchase and engrave the awards in Jan in certain number batches. And would love to have a system like this for this project.</p> <p>Thanks<br /> Harold</p> <hr /><a name="a2340_25"></a><p><b>From: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.25">#25</a>]<br /> 27 Nov 2005<br /><b>To: Bieb (HABIEB)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.24">#24</a>] 27 Nov 2005</p> Harold,<br /> <br /> You can use this method (flood) on acrylic. What you want to be careful of, is not to use too strong a solvent for cleaning. No lacquer thinner or acetone.<br /> <br /> Naptha and WD-40 has worked well for me on all substrates.<br /> <br /> Here's a story I heard the other day. Not sure if it's true or not, but I'm told it is.<br /> <br /> WD-40 got its name by being the <b>40</b>th formulation of a <b>W</b>ater <b>D</b>ispersant. <hr /><a name="a2340_26"></a><p><b>From: joepafan (GPERZEL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.26">#26</a>]<br /> 30 Nov 2005<br /><b>To: ALL</b></p> <p>Hi All;<br /> Whenever filling anything laser engraved other than wood, I use acrylic based craft paints which are very inexpensive and come in a ziilion colors-yeah, really. They work great on plex and other plastics and clean up with water.<br /> For wood plaques, etc with finished surface I also use the acrylic. For unfinished wood, mix a little Elmer's paste wood filler (in a tube, not can) with whatever color acrylic paint you want, flood it on, let it dry and sand it flush.<br /> George</p><hr /><a name="a2340_27"></a><p><b>From: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.27">#27</a>]<br /> 30 Nov 2005<br /><b>To: joepafan (GPERZEL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.26">#26</a>] 3 Dec 2005</p> George,<br /> <br /> I hadn't heard of the "wood filler" trick.<br /> <br /> Very nice! Thank you. <hr /><a name="a2340_28"></a><p><b>From: aallen</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.28">#28</a>]<br /> 1 Dec 2005<br /><b>To: joepafan (GPERZEL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.26">#26</a>] 3 Dec 2005</p> <p>I am doing some paint filling now, on plastic objects. Does anyone seal over the paint fill when done, something to protect the paint fill? Wanting to make sure the paint fill stays in place and lasts well. Maybe it does without any sealer? I have not done much paint fill, so not sure if it is everlasting! </p> <p>Also, thanks for the paint flood filling method, I had not thought or tried that! <span class="e_smile" title=":-)"><span class="e__">:-)</span> </span></p> <hr /><a name="a2340_29"></a><p><b>From: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.29">#29</a>]<br /> 1 Dec 2005<br /><b>To: aallen</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.28">#28</a>] 1 Dec 2005</p> Aleta,<br /> <br /> The paint-fill doesn't require a top coat.<br /> <br /> A good enamel or acrylic paint is very durable and won't come out of the image area, unless exposed to heavy solvents or abrasion. <hr /><a name="a2340_30"></a><p><b>From: aallen</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.30">#30</a>]<br /> 1 Dec 2005<br /><b>To: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.29">#29</a>] 1 Dec 2005</p> <p>Thank you,</p> <p>I figured that, but was not sure. Thanks for the reply so quickly! <span class="e_smile" title=":-)"><span class="e__">:-)</span> </span></p> <p>I was always hesitant about doing paint fill, but this method seems to be so much easier then I thought. Thanks again,</p> <hr /><form accept-charset="utf-8" method="get" action="lmessages.php" target="_self"><input type="hidden" name="webtag" id="webtag" class="bhinputtext" value="EE" dir="ltr" /><input type="hidden" name="msg" id="msg" class="bhinputtext" value="2340.31" dir="ltr" /><input type="submit" name="submit" id="submit1" class="button" value="Keep reading…" /></form><p align="center">Show messages:  <a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.1">1-10</a>  11-30  <a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.31">31</a></p> <h4><a href="lthread_list.php?webtag=EE">Back to thread list</a> | <a href="llogout.php?webtag=EE">Login</a></h4> <h6>© 2024 <a href="http://www.beehiveforum.net/" target="_blank">Project Beehive Forum</a></h6> </body>