From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#22]
23 Nov 2005
To: Ed (EMANA) [#21] 23 Nov 2005
Ed,
David would be dangerous (stunt-like) with a laser engraver, so we keep him away from that type of equipment. It was done with a rotary engraver.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#23]
23 Nov 2005
To: Ed (EMANA) [#21] 23 Nov 2005
Ed,
To elaborate on David Takes' assessment of my safety quotient, it's rotary engraving at about .015 deep. :-)
From: Bieb (HABIEB) [#24]
26 Nov 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#14] 27 Nov 2005
David, Great pics and explanation!! Can this method be used on Acrylic? or will it cause hazing or frosting? I have a job coming up where I will be laser engraving and gold color filling 300-600 retirement gifts. I was able to convince the school board to go with a great looking acrylic award. I am now trying to figure out how I want to accomplish the work. The awards are not due until late May for the retirement dinner. I will start to purchase and engrave the awards in Jan in certain number batches. And would love to have a system like this for this project.
Thanks
Harold
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#25]
27 Nov 2005
To: Bieb (HABIEB) [#24] 27 Nov 2005
Harold,
You can use this method (flood) on acrylic. What you want to be careful of, is not to use too strong a solvent for cleaning. No lacquer thinner or acetone.
Naptha and WD-40 has worked well for me on all substrates.
Here's a story I heard the other day. Not sure if it's true or not, but I'm told it is.
WD-40 got its name by being the 40th formulation of a Water Dispersant.
From: joepafan (GPERZEL) [#26]
30 Nov 2005
To: ALL
Hi All;
Whenever filling anything laser engraved other than wood, I use acrylic based craft paints which are very inexpensive and come in a ziilion colors-yeah, really. They work great on plex and other plastics and clean up with water.
For wood plaques, etc with finished surface I also use the acrylic. For unfinished wood, mix a little Elmer's paste wood filler (in a tube, not can) with whatever color acrylic paint you want, flood it on, let it dry and sand it flush.
George
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#27]
30 Nov 2005
To: joepafan (GPERZEL) [#26] 3 Dec 2005
George,
I hadn't heard of the "wood filler" trick.
Very nice! Thank you.
From: aallen [#28]
1 Dec 2005
To: joepafan (GPERZEL) [#26] 3 Dec 2005
I am doing some paint filling now, on plastic objects. Does anyone seal over the paint fill when done, something to protect the paint fill? Wanting to make sure the paint fill stays in place and lasts well. Maybe it does without any sealer? I have not done much paint fill, so not sure if it is everlasting!
Also, thanks for the paint flood filling method, I had not thought or tried that! :-)
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#29]
1 Dec 2005
To: aallen [#28] 1 Dec 2005
Aleta,
The paint-fill doesn't require a top coat.
A good enamel or acrylic paint is very durable and won't come out of the image area, unless exposed to heavy solvents or abrasion.
From: aallen [#30]
1 Dec 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#29] 1 Dec 2005
Thank you,
I figured that, but was not sure. Thanks for the reply so quickly! :-)
I was always hesitant about doing paint fill, but this method seems to be so much easier then I thought. Thanks again,
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#31]
1 Dec 2005
To: aallen [#30] 1 Dec 2005
quote:
this method seems to be so much easier than I thought.
You're not alone. When people see paint-filled items, visions of surgical application come to mind.
That's why I posted the most common (flood) method, which, as you witnessed, is anything but exacting. :-)
Show messages:
1
2-21
22-31